Bike Talk motorcycle forum

I was out riding last night and she just died on me (nothing like pushing a 600lb bike for five miles to put a smile on your face)
No response at the start switch no click at the starter.
I have lights and all the rest of the system seems to work and there is a full charge showing on the gage.
I thought it might be the starter relay,but I found when I removed the coil that my front spark plug wire was worn through the rubber and there was a deep crease at the cap atatched to the coil,so I know that has to be replaced but what I need to know is if the coil would stop the whole thing or did it just short out?
Also if this would just stop the whole show...you know relay,coil,and anything else?
David
Yes I'm a newbie but at least I WANT to wrench my bike!that why I bough:angry: t it!

I have a 2000 Classic with 95 ci kit and high flow K&N air filter. I am getting engine oil blowing out the air cleaner and dirtying the side cover and sadle bag. There are no leaks and does not seem to burn oil yet uses a quart in less than a 1000 miles. Any ideas on what to check?

I could sure use some help with picking an air cleaner and an EFI module for a new Dyna Wideglide.

I've never owned a fuel injected Harley and I understand that the PCIII is the accepted way to go but has anyone checked out the Fuelpak by V & H? Since I'm going to install the Python staggered duals, why would I want to spend big bucks on the PCIII (plus dyno time , etc.) when I can spend little bucks on the Fuelpak (no dyno needed) and do the mapping myself...that is if the Fuelpak works well. Someone help me.

Next, what should I use for the air cleaner? Is any free flow acceptable? Any suggestions for performance and looks?

Thanks for any help.

Redf

I have a 95 flh, I have taken the bike completely apart to create a fire bike project. i have powder coated the eng, trans, wheel, brake calipers red. I also am painting the body parts red. and polished rotors, front forks, and a few areas of the motor... well enough about the project my question is the eng heads, jugs, and case I powder coated all the areas that the bolts go thru and I was wondering if I would have to remove the powder from these areas due to torqueing the bolts and eng heat? ihope I explained this well.

Ok, here's my latest bitch. I drove to Jersey City last weekend to pick up a new jointer for my shop, about 1hr 10min away. All highway, route 78, and about the same speed, (these crazy bastards around here don't drive any slower), and I get loaded with my new machine....about 1200-1500lbs, a nice heavy machine, built back when they made real tools, like maybe 1930 or so. So I drive, stop for coffee, and get home, after racing like an idiot down the highway with the rest of the fool cagers. I get home and park my pickup in front of my shop door, so I can unload my new toy with my Kubota tractor. I hop back into the truck to pull it out from under the swinging machine and my brake pedal goes to the floor like I'm steppin into a pile of s**t. I'll be damned if my brake line didn't...