S&S V111 domino effect.

I installed this V111 a year and a half ago. Got about 15 thousand on it. Like Lucifer, I always had hot starting problems. Even with the compression releases it’s hard on starters. The original starter went early on and the new starter clutch went after about a year. But when that went the starter ring gear went with it.

I replaced the starter clutch with an All Balls clutch and the ring gear and jack shaft set with an Evolution Industries set. Looks like a quality piece too. Went with 84 tooth instead of 102 tooth ring gear. The engine turns over faster which helps my hot starting problem. It still stalls the starter on the first engagement but starts good after that.

I also replaced the inner clutch basket. The stealership parts guy said check the splines and he was right they were worn. This may have caused the whole basket to be off center (this bike has 120,000 miles).

I had also replaced my battery cables with a set that has like 1500 strands and gold plated ends. I forget who makes them but they were like $60 a set and I don’t think it help any.

All that cost over $500.00. Now my Barnette clutch is slipping more so I installed the screaming beagle heavey clutch spring, and now I can’t pull in the clutch lever more than about 20 times before my hand cramps up, so I’m waiting on the white brothers easy clutch adapter i ordered

Like I said, domino effect. Just to let you all know what happens when you go for more power. a Or maybe it's just the way it is when you don't have enough to buy new bike every couple o years.

Did you run a second ground cable from the battery right to a starter mounting bolt??
HRK mentioned it a few times and I used to get "tech tips" from S&S back in the day when the 96" S&S was king of cubes lol...That was one of their tips....It definitely helps... At least a #4 AWG or larger....the heavier the cable the less voltage drop through it...

I don't know about these Hi-Perf, problems, but couldn't a spark retard be designed to take care of this? Just wondering..

I did all the stuff with star washers, grinding off paint, bypassing the frame etc. The kick back is ONLY when it is hot. Like Lucifer said, you hate stopping for gas cause when you start up the first engagement of the jack shaft jams the starter. So you back off real quick and hit it again. The second time it turns over like it should. With the S&S you then have to open the throttle a wee bit before it will start.

I know the comp releases are working because if I stick my fingers on them they are always pulling in.

I'm using the S&S IST ignition system. There is no changing spark at startup as far as I know. I've called S&S several times and they have never mentioned this.

Besides I would have to buy their cable and software to hook it to a laptop and they want $350.00 for it.

You still have the pick up sensor in the nose cone eh??You can retard timing with that a couple of degrees rotating it counter clockwise....That way would shift the entire curve back a couple degrees....

Hold the rear compression realease down while you crank it it will turn over easier and fire quicker.

Actually the nose cone is empty. This IST has a crank sensor, a knock sensor, temp sensor, and intake pressure sensor. No wires coming out of the nose cone.

And then everything is computed in the module under the seat. Nothing to adjust unless you have a puter and majic bits and bites.

In a way I'm kinda glad. I spent half my life with a power-commander when this bike had FI and I was never able to confirm that timing changed at all no matter what I did with the stupid thing and then after converting it to carb I had to deal with the dynotek 2ki which wasn't too bad but I had pre-ignition problems etc. etc. Finally changed completely to this V111 and I don't want to open it up at all... just let it run the way it is.

I like simplicity but I like this IST too. I can't really complain too much except for this hot starting issue.

I do need to try this cept when it is hot it's hard to put your hands in there on top of the heads to hold them done without using welding gloves....which I have hmmmmm I'll have to try this.

Yeah,after I posted I checked out the IST ignition...Kinda like a fuelie's ECM but for a carb
While I was searching ,I came across this thread...

http://bike-talk.com/threads/s-s-v111.18856/



Did you get the carb dialed in??

I made my buddy with his 124 a hold down tool out of aluminum and he dipped it in liquid electrical tape so as to not scrape the head fins kinda looks like a spoon keeps it in his tank leather pocket slides it under the fin holds it with one finger fires it off and hes good to go on the hot restarts.no more starter and ring gear issuies after 3 broken startes in half I may add .half a dozen starter cluthes two updated ring geras and starter jaack shafts.i can change a softail starter. In 35 min start to finish with out pulling the rear tire.lmfa.

So do you think the electronic comp releases aren't working when it's hot? I couldn't get S&S to understand what the hot start issue was. I think they are in denial.

I even saw a review of the new Big Bear chopper with the SS111 and the reviewer even said in the article that this engine was a bitch to restart.

Yeah the carbs running good. no backfires or farts. I ended up with the same jetting that was in it when it was delivered. The only thing I changed was the air bleed jet for the pipes. I went from 40 thou to 60 thou.

Yeah, I wish I could find someone to hook up a laptop to it and check the timing at startup at least. That's a good thought.

I got a stock HD starter with AllBalls clutch and super expensive battery cables.

I checked the comp releases but when it's real hot then who knows, i'll have to stick my hand in there and see.

A ha !+1 I thought he had manual comp buttons .ok this is a new ball game ! Do exactly what hrk is telling you. That thing should not be as hard to stert as you described.