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Jan
11
I have a problem with my early 91fxr, it shift hard from 3rd to 4th gear. the clutch has been replaced, shifter pawl replaced, shifter forks are perfectly straight,there is absolutely no metal flakes in the tranny oil, the gears and shifter cam are smooth and clean, looks brand new, we have checked out everything in the repair manual and all checks are good.
it starts out fine but within 10 miles its starts shifting hard, then when shifting from 3 to 4 it goes to nuetral, then i clutch again and grind it into 4 or it skips and goes directly to 5th.
it is wierd and makes no sense to me at all.
it starts out fine but within 10 miles its starts shifting hard, then when shifting from 3 to 4 it goes to nuetral, then i clutch again and grind it into 4 or it skips and goes directly to 5th.
it is wierd and makes no sense to me at all.
Jan
11
Have not been for probably eight or nine years but since it is back here again, I'll be there.
http://www.tucsonstyle.com/events/EventDetail.aspx?ID=26932&Affil=tcc
http://www.tucsonstyle.com/events/EventDetail.aspx?ID=26932&Affil=tcc
Jan
10
I have a 2003 VZ800 Suzuki Marauder. The stock exhaust is very quiet and I would like an exhaust with a little throatier sound without being too loud. I have been looking at Hardkrome slach cut slip-ons #DSD406040D. I was wondering if these are any good and is it possible to get away without re-jetting the carbs. The Hardkrome company told me that re-jetting is not always necessary with slip-ons depending on the area of the country you are from. They told me to test ride the new mufflers for about 20 minutes and then check the spark plugs. If the bike runs well and the plugs check out you can forget the carbs. Any help will be appreciated.
Jan
10
Just got a set of Hooker tuned mufflers for my Glide today but there were no instructions in the box. Can anyone tell me how to adjust the Torque and Horsepower settings on these puppies. I took the cap off and there are four allen head bolts under it. The bolts are at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock. There is a large T for torque I guess under the 12 bolt and a large H for hp under the 6 bolt. I was told that it is best to set the front cylinder for T and Rear for H. Anybody wanna help with this
Jan
10
Like many others here, I am going to change out my bars here in another week or two. My horse is a 2004 FLSTFI. I have read many posts and have a good idea of what it is going to take to do the task. My question is: Is it necessary to remove the fuel tank to run the wires inside the bars? Is it because the connectors are under the seat? This is the only item that I am really a little unclear on.
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